Anchoring on a wreck

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justin
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Post by justin »

BB i like the brick idea after ten years fishing the same spot the fish will be able to build their dream home


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timwicks
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Post by timwicks »

Thanks for your thoughts BB. I haven't used a CQR anchor much, but will now. Is anyone else for or against using CQR anchors?
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Emil
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Re: Anchoring on a wreck

Post by Emil »

You've got me interested Barrabeast.
Would you have a photo of the setup you are describing?
cheers,
Em
cheers,
Emil
cuddlescooper
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Re: Anchoring on a wreck

Post by cuddlescooper »

Anchoring infront of the wreck is definatly the go. The best way to do it is to use your Gps. Saves running the risk of losing your marker bouy and also gets the marker out of the way so that fish dont run you around it.

The technique

1.Simply drive up to the mark (insure that you have zoomed in as far as possible on the plotter screen) then bring the boat to a complete stop on top of the mark (Remember that momentum will keep you travelling if you simply pull the boat out of gear so use reverse thrust to stop the boat. I know that I have come to a complete stop when all the bubbles or a leaf around you are floating at the same speed as the boat.)

2.Once stopped Simply wait for a minute or two in a dead drift. On your plotter screen you should have a track that has been made from the path you have drifted.

3. It is a simple matter of driving back over that track that you have just drifted.

4.Once at the mark keep travelling a further 40 or so meters in the same direction past the mark. Basically creat a mirror image on the plotter (The distance required will very depending on how much tide and wind is running and also the depth of water you are anchoring in. If more of anything mentioed the more rope and distance you add)

5.Once you are on the up current side come to a dead stop and drop the anchor. What should happen is that the boat will float back towards the mark along the path that you have prior driven.

6. Once the plough or CQR anchor has a hold just let enough rope back so that you sit a little bit infront of the mark.

Remember that ploughs and the likes need a lot of rope out to take effect. They require angle in the rope to create down force in there flukes. That is why chain is required to be used as it drags along the bottom creating the angle to bury the anchor into the sand or mud. If the rope is straight up and down they will not work and you risk dragging the anchor into the wreck and ploughs will not come back out most of the time if they do. The breakaway system that barrabeast describes is a good one to help prevent anchore loss if you do make a mistake and drag into the wreck.

This technique will also work with a reef pick if you intend on hooking into the wreck and pulling up tight on the anchor line.

Hope this helps and the directions are clear enough for everyone to understand. :cheers:

A lot there to digest but this technique is what I used on charter were i would anchor 15 to 20 times a day on occasions and most of the time it got me with in a spitting distance of my marks.
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Emil
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Re: Anchoring on a wreck

Post by Emil »

great post, thanks a lot for the info! :applause:
I always seem to have a problem with anchoring up on the required spot, and have even questioned the accuracy of the mark :rofl:
Some of us have a lot to learn, but that's the good thing about this forum. :D

cheers,
Emil
:cheers:
cheers,
Emil
nomad
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Re: Anchoring on a wreck

Post by nomad »

The float method works well in low run situations but on the big runs you are just going to lose floats.
I find the key to anchoring is the chain. The chain actually holds the anchor flat on the bottom. If you use a pissy little chain, the anchor will drag.
We were always told to use 5 times the depth of water in rope. Ie 10m water depth = 50 m of rope out.
Most newer plotters have a ‘point ahead’ line that shows the direction you are travelling.
So like others have said, stop directly over the mark and drift back.
Then follow back along the line of drift the 50 m plus the amount your drop back of the line /sinker.
If you add a little bit more, go say 75 m ahead, you can always come forward on the same line, but it's a pain in the arse to try to find the spot again.
fish are usually feeding on the current side of the wreck

the above information has helped me numerous times when ive pulled in heaps of sharks. :rofl:
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erudebill
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Post by erudebill »

Mud wrote:
I have a similar (but different :bonk: ) issue. I sound over country that shows fish holding, bring the boat around & anchor, and more often than not once the pick sets & boat becomes stationary - all sign of fish disappear from the sounder :evil:

You lucky bastard. You lucky lucky bastard. Ohhhh how I wish my fish would run away after they appear on the sounder. My fish sit under the boat pointing up and giggling. Then they cell phone a couple of big mates to ghost through the sounder signal so that the kids will say
"Whadya reckon that is dad? Can we catch it?"
"No son...the manufacturer puts images of big fish there to make you think their machine helped you find them. Unfortunately those big fish are imaginary and cannot be caught."
"Well what happened to the wreck dad?"
"Well...um...Two rods told me that when you stop the bottom goes flat...I guess its from the war where they wanted subs to get lost............so who wants some Maccas?!"
Mud I nearly p...ed my pants reading your post.

I got sick of pulling the anchor up and down so I brought an electric one. Then who cares if you have to do it a couple of times.
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erudebill

MOUSE
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Re: Anchoring on a wreck

Post by MOUSE »

There has been some excellent information posted here, thank you to all, hopefully I can now put theory into practice & improve my catch rate on wrecks 8)
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Polycrafty
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Re: Anchoring on a wreck

Post by Polycrafty »

Very helpful,thanks.
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